My Tanzanian License Saga!

After 4 visits to the Tanzanian Revenue Authority (akin to the Department of Motor Vehicles), 66,000 Tsh spent (about $40 USD), and about 4 hours of my life that I'll never get back, I am now a licensed driver in the United Republic of Tanzania!

(I remember a warning going around Facebook saying not to post your license info, so I covered up the number!)

As photos go, this was clearly not my best.  But they told me not to smile, and this was taken after I had spent about an hour in line and it was over 90 degrees in the building (there was a struggling A/C unit in the office but it was clearly not designed for a large space with lots of bodies).

Thankfully, I'm now good through January of 2017!

The license process involved 11 steps, was completely inefficient and split between two offices across the hall from each other in a shopping plaza located about 11 km from our house (and in a place with bad traffic, so some days it took me an hour to get there).

11 easy steps to getting a license in Dar es Salaam:
1.  I filled out an application form in Office A
2.  I went across the hall to Office B, stood in a long line and received a TIN, which I needed to complete the form (the TIN itself was magically generated via 5 minutes of frenetic computer activity)
3.  I went back to Office A, stood in another line, and got a notice of payment for a provisional license
4.  I went back to Office B and paid for the provisional license

**I was told to come back "kesho" (Swahili for "tomorrow.")  Based on previously failed promises of "kesho" in other places, I waited a week before returning.

5.  I came back to Office A and stood in a line to get a notice of payment for the driving test.
6.  I went back to Office B to pay for the driving test.

**I was told to come back "kesho" (see above...I waited another week).

7.  I came back to Office A and explained that I didn't need to take the test since I was a licensed U.S. driver.
8.  I was sent to another desk in Office A where I explained that I was a U.S. driver.  He did some computer wizardry for about 5 minutes.
9.  I went back to the original desk in Office A where a notice of payment was generated.
10.  I went to office B and paid for the license.

**I was told to come back "kesho kutwa" (which means the "day after tomorrow" which would bring us to Saturday).  On the way out the door, I checked to see the Saturday operating hours.  The sign said "closed Saturday."  Consequently, I waited until Thursday.

11.  I picked up the license today without any problems!!!

Despite the hours spent in the TRA and the multitude of steps completed, there were 2 things that were never done:
1.  No one actually looked at my passport to verify my birth date (shucks, I could've taken 10 years off!)
2.  No one actually looked at my international driver's license to verify that I was, in fact, an actual driver that was exempt from a driving test.  I was really stressed about that part, since the international driver's license is supposed to be presented along with a valid U.S. driver's license...but since my NJ license was stolen, I had only the very unofficial-looking AAA-issued international piece of paper.  As they say here....hamnashida!  (no problems!)

After I had gotten halfway through the process, I learned that there were Tanzanian natives that could have helped me through.  In fact, one of our HOPAC teacher friends inadvertently paid a bribe to someone at the TRA which shaved down the time to get a license to just one day!  However, I'm proud of myself for soldiering on alone with my broken Swahili.  While it certainly wasn't a fun time, I have learned a lot more patience and appreciation for the NJ DMV as a result!  Although there might be long lines there also, at least 1) multiple visits are not usually required and 2) U.S. participants almost always respect order and lines.  And they usually wear deodorant.

The Content of My Character

Although it's just an ordinary Monday here in Dar, today marks the celebration of Martin Luther King, Jr.'s birthday back in the U.S. Before the focus of this day shifted to a 3-day weekend and MLK Day sales at the mall, the intent of this holiday was to honor a man who was instrumental in helping to bring racial equality to a troubled nation.

One of his most famous speeches is the “I Have a Dream” address from 1963, in which he shared, “I have a dream that my four little children will one day live in a nation where they will not be judged by the color of their skin but by the content of their character.”

This year, for the first time, I understand a tiny bit about what it means to be judged on the color of my skin rather than the content of my character. I'm sure people have made assumptions about me based on my skin tone for my whole life, but because the color of my skin is white, this means education, privilege, majority in the U.S. It's not always easy to notice when you are being judged if it's in a favorable light. 

However, here in Africa, it's apparent that I am judged on the color of my skin every day. There aren't a lot of white folks around and so being one (especially one with blonde hair) makes me stand out in every crowd. A common occurrence is to be greeted, “Habari, mzungu” (How are you, white person?) It's not culturally offensive here and in most cases the person asks the question with a smile. But it really bothers me every time.

The Swahili word “mzungu” literally translated means “foreigner” or “aimless wanderer.” Although the more common usage is simply to describe people of Western descent, the use of this word really highlights the fact that I am different. The word can also be loaded with all sorts of other assumptions: money, education, privilege on the positive side; selfishness, entitlement, wastefulness on the negative side.

To be sure, I'll never understand what it truly means to be discriminated against. Even in Africa, white skin means power. Although I'm a “minority” here, I'm still educated, rich by the standards of most of the world, and I hold a U.S. passport. In my case, the stereotype of “mzungu” is fairly accurate: I am incredibly privileged. However, I don't like it when people assume that I am a wealthy vacationer with tons of money to throw around. I am a missionary here and a long term resident – I'm here to invest in the culture and I am more than just a consumer. I also don't want people to assume that I think I'm entitled to all this privilege. While I'm grateful, I understand that being born white was nothing I did myself and I hope that I never take any of this privilege for granted.

Although it's uncomfortable, I'm thankful for this small glimpse into a world that I've never seen before and I pray that this will help me to become more compassionate. And I fervently hope, along with Dr. King, that one day we will all be judged only on the content of our character.  

Thankful Tuesday

In looking back over my blog posts, I realize that too often I have been only been sharing struggles and concerns and very rarely sharing the praises.  I think that's probably true of other people, also - when things are going well we tend to act like blessings are to be expected rather than, well...blessings!  And it's only when things go awry that we cry out for help.  So I resolve to do at least one blog post a month to highlight some items of thanksgiving - both large and small!

1.  Today is Maulid Day, the prophet Mohammed's birthday, and a national holiday for this heavily Muslim country.  Yesterday was also an unexpected national holiday (Zanzibar Independence Day, declared as a holiday only the day before by Tanzania's president!) and so we've had a four day weekend.  It's been really nice to sleep in, slow down, and relax.

2.  I am really enjoying the new Swahili class that I'm taking three mornings a week with three other HOPAC women, who were gracious enough to allow me to join their group mid-stream.  The program uses the GPA approach (Growing Participator Approach) which emphasizes that we are not learning a language but we are entering into a culture.  Therefore, memorizing vocabulary and grammar rules are discouraged; the focus is on listening comprehension and relationship.  In fact, the first stage of GPA is listening only...the way we all learned our first language.  We have a Tanzanian language facilitator, Lucy, who is one of the most upbeat, positive and encouraging people I've ever met.  She has such a warm smile and constantly says, "Kazi nzuri!"(Good job!) when we get frustrated with ourselves   I still don't have any idea why I've been placed in Tanzania, but I'm going to do my absolute best to embrace the culture and language and see where it goes.

3.  I am thrilled that we've had two successful experiences in making flour tortillas.  In a country with cheap and readily available fresh avocados and tomatoes, it seemed a cruel irony that tortillas and tortilla chips are nearly non-existent.   Special shout-out to Tim for his efforts:  I have no patience with rolling dough but I am good at the frying.  We make a good team!

4.  I am so thankful for good health for everyone.  We had a rough stretch over Christmas (I took Charlotte to the clinic on Christmas Day itself with a high fever) and then after coming back from Lushoto we dealt with the after-effects of something we ate there for quite a while.  Good health is truly a blessing and something I too often take for granted.

5.  Our power has been really reliable the past month or so.  November was a very discouraging time as the power was off every other day for 12+ hours at a stretch for almost two weeks straight.  But since then, it's really only been off a couple of times.  During this hot season, it's been so great to have fans, A/C when we absolutely need it, and ice cubes!

6.  I've been frustrated with Kindle recently...but what a blessing to have a Kindle and to read in a country without a public library system.

7.  Skype, Facebook and email are absolutely amazing for keeping in touch with everyone back home.  Please know that every time you contact me, it is a huge blessing and a real encouragement!

8.  I wasn't expecting to enjoy our dog Moshi as much as I have.  Sometimes he can be a little much in his extreme desire for love and his German shepherd need to follow me everywhere I go, but he is a loyal, faithful companion and a really good dog.  He is just so happy to be allowed inside with the family, so he's become more of an indoor than an outdoor pet these days.

Miracles

One thing I wasn't expecting about our time here in Tanzania is that the majority of Christians I know come from very different faith backgrounds than I do.  Many friends come from charismatic and Pentecostal churches and as such, they are much more inclined to talk about miracles, signs, dreams, prophetic visions, speaking in tongues, and hearing "a word from the Lord."

This is challenging to me, coming from a Christian Reformed heritage that really doesn't emphasize any of these traditions.  I certainly don't doubt the sincerity of these friends and I do believe God can and does act in a variety of ways, but none of these things have been part of my upbringing.  Talking about them is as new and foreign to me as everything else in Tanzania.

Consequently, when I lost my wallet,  many people started praying over it immediately.  I really tried hard to keep an open heart and mind even though my logical, reasonable, left-brain self knew it was gone.  This morning, I felt a prompting to return to the place I had last seen the wallet two days ago.  I didn't want to go, but because I felt this urging, I decided to obey.  On the way to the duka (store), I prayed hard for it to be there.  And I really, really believed that it could be...but it wasn't.  The employees of the duka were very friendly and sincerely sad that it is still lost, and I got to practice some Swahili with them, but the bottom line is that there was no miracle.

While sitting in the office of the TRA (DMV) for three hours, beginning the multi-step, multi-week process that needs to happen for me to get a Tanzanian driver's license, I reflected on the concept of miracles.  I will be the first to confess that my heart is hardened somewhat towards them.  Fifteen years ago, I pleaded with the Lord for my dad to be healed of his brain cancer.  I prayed every single Bible verse that applies to answered prayer:  James 5:15 "And the prayer offered in faith will make the sick person well; the Lord will raise him."  Matthew 21: 22 "If you believe, you will receive whatever you ask for in prayer."  Mark 11:24 "Therefore I tell you, whatever you ask for in prayer, believe that you have received it, and it will be yours."

And yet he wasn't healed.  There was no miracle.  He died at age 52, leaving a hole that is still in my heart to this day.

But maybe some miracles are more subtle than others.  Maybe the miracle today is that I made it to and from the TRA office past four police patrols without being pulled over.  Maybe the miracle is that I was given grace and patience enough to deal with the line-jumping and the personal space violations that occurred all around me.  Maybe the miracle is that the car didn't break down and I didn't overheat.  Maybe the miracle is that someone got some desperately-needed money from my wallet.

Regarding miracles:  "I do believe.  Help me overcome my unbelief." (Mark 9:24)

Thanking God in the dark times

"Give thanks in all circumstances, for this is God's will for you in Christ Jesus."  (I Thessalonians 5:18)

I find it a lot easier to give thanks in December - in the anticipation of Christmas, through the singing of joyful carols, in the giving and receiving of gifts, with the break from school and work to rest and enjoy.

January is a lot harder for me.  Our family definitely has some post-Christmas letdown:  every morning this week has been a real struggle to get ready for school, and homework and bedtime have been challenging every evening.  After 6 weeks of visitors and fun, we are back to regular old routine and it's difficult to remain thankful and positive.  Every year I also struggle during this month due to the weather, and this year is no exception.  We may not have gray days and frigid temperatures, but we do have oppressive heat with no end in sight.  Just as the chapped lips, dry skin and colds of winter start to wear on me, so do these hot days of summer with the unending sweating and relentless sunshine.

On top of the day-to-day blues, something happened to my wallet yesterday.  I'm still not sure if it was lost or stolen, but on top of losing a chunk of cash, my U.S. driver's license and my ATM card are also gone.  This is a daunting setback even in the U.S., but here on the other side of the world I'm finding it really difficult to regroup.

This morning, we also learned that a grade 11 HOPAC student was struck and killed yesterday at the side of the road while waiting to go to the Wednesday night football match.  I didn't know him but many did and the signs of grief are everywhere on campus.  As a mother, I cannot imagine going through that. Suddenly my little problems don't seem so all-encompassing, but yet I feel bombarded with circumstances which are not inspiring thankfulness.

This verse is challenging and convicting this month as I'm not really sure how to continue to give thanks in all circumstances.   I don't have a lot of direction other than trust, faith and struggle.  We need to decide to be thankful even when we don't want to.  Even when we truly don't feel there is anything to be thankful for, we know deep down that there is.  And expressing thankfulness leads to a more thankful spirit.  Sometimes, as one of my old bosses used to say, "You've gotta fake it till you make it."

In 2013, our family started a "gratitude jar."  Every evening after devotions, we would take turns writing down something on a note card for which we were thankful.  This past week, we then took turns reading those note cards aloud.  It was truly powerful to see the many ways in which we have been blessed, particularly in this monumental year of transition.  We are going to do this again in 2014, and this is one way, at least, in which I can continue to be thankful in all circumstances.

"Restore to me the joy of your salvation, and grant me a willing spirit to sustain me." (Psalm 51:12).

A Cool Vacation

Ah, Lushoto. We've heard the stories, and we had the chance to see the reality. It did not disappoint. This is an area of northern Tanzania, in the mountains. It's a bit close to Mt. Kilimanjaro (it's on the way), but still too far away to see it or anything.

After about 5 hours of driving NNW, we turned up a road, and started to go up, and up, and up. Our hot car started to cool off. Putting our hands out the windows, we could feel something we hadn't felt since last May, at least...cool air. We rose past rocky outcroppings that looked like they'd be at home in Arizona, into an alpine setting that looked more like the Alps (or how I'd picture the alps!). But maybe that was just the influence of the name of the place we stayed: the Swiss Farm Cottage. A whole week of temperatures no higher than 80 (and as low, maybe, as mid50s?) Sweatshirts and socks. And board games, a whole lot of board games.

Some of our highlights:

• Staying in a two family cabin with our friends, co-conspirators, and mission-mates, the Driesingas. Those kids are just too cute!
• Stepping outside to cool, fresh air and mountain scenery. And only a few drops of rain all week!
• The kids playing like mountain goats up and down the green grass and rocky outcroppings. They basically disappeared from 9 - 5 each day.
• Doing nothing. Lots of movies, games, and reading. 
• Also, spending time with our other friends who stayed in the other cabins. Tim probably played at least 30, maybe 40 board games during the week. He even felt...some satiated. Nah.
• A short drive and hike to a nice waterfall, which allowed for some nice climbing and scampering around rocks.
• The stars! Finally, we had the best ever glimpse of the African sky and it did not disappoint. Amazingly clear and bright stars in all directions, almost every night. A lot of tripping up stairs due to not being able to take our eyes off the heavens.
• Fires in the fireplace! At night, it was never "cold," but just comfortable enough to light a fire and enjoy the different temperatures of the outside breeze mingling with the roasting wood.

It was still Africa, with power issues, food of differing qualities (ordering the same thing from day to day was no guarantee of the same results. mostly, this was amusing and fun), digestive issues, communication barriers and things that didn't quite work. But it was exactly what we needed for a recharge and respite before we begin Term 2.